Once more, with feeling

Once again, the Style Arc Stacie jean jacket.  Fabric is a cotton pique from Gorgeous Fabrics.  Cuffs, collar and flaps are faced with a Liberty Tana lawn print.  Snaps are from Snap Source.

 

 

 

This is version 4 -- not pictured previously is one in red twill that was made for my youngest daughter.  And now, Stacie will be retired, at least until next year.  

Heartbeat Redux

I wasn't sure I really wanted to post this, but just in case there is a lesson here for someone else...

Quite a while ago I knit this sweater, a design from Just One More Row.  I had some frustrations with it -- all concerning the fit.  It's actually a very easy sweater to knit.  Here's the deal -- this is presented as a pattern that can be made in any size, any gauge.  To quote the instruction booklet "This unusual sweater begins at the center neckline and is knitted out to any size.  Vertical side panels fine-tune the fit."  Yardage information is provided for knitting a yarn at 5 st per inch in sizes ranging from 32" to 64".  There is a photo of a cute little top, shown on a flat mannequin (uh oh, could that be a clue?). 

So, here's my beef:  Yes, you probably can knit this sweater to a circumference of 64".  But will it fit any other aspect of your body, without adaptation, except the circumference?  Will it look like the photo illustration?  Because here's the thing -- this sweater is built geometrically.  As it increases in width, it increases in depth.  Unlike most human bodies.  Those of you who sew, and wear larger sizes, may be nodding your head about now.  How often have you lamented the fact that sewing patterns are (mostly) graded this way?  Just because you need extra circumference doesn't mean you are also 6 feet  tall.  And just because you need extra girth you may not need the extra length between your shoulder and bust or waist.

The first time I knit this sweater I knit it with positive ease.  A family of four could have lived in it comfortably.  My mistake, and one I make frequently -- adding too much ease.  This version has negative ease.  Its total circumference is 36".   That's not tiny, but it's also not incredibly large, as modern chest sizes go.  And yet -- even at 36" -- it was way too deep at the neckline for (my) wearing comfort.  The designer suggests working additional neckline edging to counteract this problem.  My neckline edging is 4 times wider than that shown in the pattern photo.  Due to my narrow shoulders, I would really prefer it to be wider, but it was beginning to look disproportionate to me so I stopped.

So, what did I learn?  Besides the fact that once a design has slapped me around I should probably not ask for a re-match?  Well, I think I can reliably say that this design is probably not meant (as shown) for those of narrow shoulders and larger bust -- unless you like the look of a yoked sweater -- because that's how deep that neckband is going to be.  And if you need a sweater with a circumference  that's a bit larger?  Be prepared to do some adapting to fill in those front and back necklines.  Unless, of course, you like a navel-revealing look!

Sigh, when will I learn?

And then...

So, we survived four days without full power -- two days with partial power from a generator, then two days with zip when the generator went toes up -- and then we decided it was an excellent time to do this:

That's a laundry room after cabinet/counters/sink removal.  And that has proceeded with the usual home renovation fun (insert hysterical laughter here), but I'm sure it will be totally worth it when complete.  And if I say that enough it will surely be true.

But we can't let minor inconveniences get in the way of sewing fun!  And finally, after much dithering around, I got a spring version of Style Arc's Stacie jean jacket finished:

Not modeled, sorry, but then you've seen the autumn version worn, and it fits just the same.  Fabric is a stretch denim, in a lovely shade of green -- how on trend!  Closures are antique copper colored snaps (size 20) from SNAP SOURCE.  As mentioned, pattern is from STYLE ARC, Stacie Jean Jacket.  It is beautifully drafted, and sews together easily.  I took issue with a couple of directions, but I don't want to say they are wrong, just that they puzzled me.  First was the direction to sew the collar pieces together and then top stitch them before sewing to the neck.  I'm not sure how you can easily sew the undercollar to the neck edge along its entire length if it has topstitching already done -- perhaps there's an industry secret I don't know -- but in any case, I top stitched after affixing the collar to jacket.  Also, I couldn't figure out just what was expected to be done to finish off the front facing at the collar edge.  Could have asked Style Arc, they are very responsive to customers, but instead I just turned down the raw edge and sewed it down as I was sewing down the inside collar edge.  Worked, looks fine, no raw edges, happy sewist. 

There has been knitting, but due to 2 million (I exaggerate; it's only 50,000) ends needing worked in it isn't ready for its close up.  This was a re-visit to a former nemesis -- the Heartbeat sweater from Just One More Row.  I think I have ended up with a wearable sweater.  Not sure if I want to go through with explanations of my continuing issues with the math behind this one, but photos will follow. 

And Central Virginia Grinds to a Halt

Things I am thankful for today -- a generator, even though it only supplies partial power to the house, at least we have some heat and running water -- power has been out since sometime in the middle of the night, and not likely to be restored until tomorrow at the earliest.  Pray the propane holds out!

Also grateful for Internet access -- and most importantly -- Blue Bell Banana Pudding ice cream in the freezer! 

Stay warm and safe!

Whew!

That was a lot of knitting, but Lido is finished -- I was hoping to get it done before the end of February and I made it (just barely).

Still too chilly and grey for a modeled shot, but done, done, done.  Actually though, I still am puzzling a bit over the closure.  The pattern calls for I-cord ties affixed to the front edges, but I don't see how they fasten that way in any way except having the front edges meet.  However, the accompanying photo shows it being worn with the fronts overlapped, and that is how I want to be able to wear it -- otherwise it looks boxy and a bit big.  I have a feeling the solution may involve sewing a couple of snaps, so perhaps I am not entirely done, done, done.

Style Arc Stacie

On the sewing front I'm getting ready for spring by trying out a jean jacket pattern from Style Arc -- I'm planning on making it in a nice bright color for spring, but wanted to check the fit before cutting into my lovely orange fabric.  Luckily I had some nice stretch corduroy on hand which will work well in my wardrobe next autumn.

After measuring the pattern, I thought it wise to give myself a little extra room in the bust and the hip area.  The shoulders generally fit well for me in Style Arc patterns, so I left that as it was, and the waist seemed to be good also.  Basically, I felt I needed a FBA (full bust adjustment) and just a scootch more room around the hips.  Adding to the side seams of front and back pieces by tapering out from the waist to about 1/4 inch from the hip gave me a much appreciated extra inch.  The FBA was made by adding slightly to two of the lower front pieces -- again, tapering to nothing at the waist.  The front yoke piece remained the same size.  I think it worked fairly well, and the jacket can be comfortably worn closed should I ever want to. 

Fasteners are from Snap Source -- I used the size 20 (1/2 inch or 13 mm) caps in the antique brass finish.  I really like the ease of applying these snaps, and they come in a wide range of colors. 

This time, the fabric was so 'springy' and thick that I had a little trouble keeping it from shifting while I placed the middle layer of the snap tool on the fabric.  Luckily, I discovered that a pencil could hold the fabric steady while I was doing that, and because the middle layer has a pencil sized hole in it I could keep the fabric held down until everything was securely in place.  Worked a charm.





And here's the jacket being worn, but before I had applied the snaps --

 I think it will be a nice layer for changeable spring weather -- once again, Style Arc comes through!

Anticipating Spring

It's a raw, dreary day, and there's still plenty of winter left I'm sure.  Nonetheless, it's time to put aside the woolen fabric and yarn and look forward to warmer days.

I'm usually caught still finishing up winter projects once the nicer weather rolls around, but this year will be different.  To wit: 

 

 

 

Lido, a light little wrap from Hanne Falkenberg.  I don't expect to wear it quite like the model shown, but I think it will be a handy layer for warmer weather.

 

This is knit in Hanne's own line of yarn, in the same fresh green as the model.  I'm working it on US size 2 needles (2.75 m) at a gauge of 100 stitches to 4 inches -- no, no, that's just some knitting humor -- it's really knit at 28 stitches and 54 rows per 4 inch (10 cm) swatch.  Since I'm not a spectacularly fast knitter I expect it may well be warm enough to wear it by the time I'm done.  Here's where I am now:

 

 

 

Roughly 2 inches or so into the lower eyelet portion of the top -- one sleeve has been picked up and knit, one sleeve still has stitches waiting for pick up.  As you can tell, it's knit seamlessly (mostly) from the top down.  While it was a little discouraging when all 1,000,000 stitches - fronts, sleeves, and back - were on the needle, things are going a bit faster now that I am only working on the fronts/back. 

 

One aspect of it is speeding by though.  It has two 33 cm (roughly 13 inches) I-cord ties called for to fasten the fronts.  Ordinarily working 26 inches of I-cord on such small needles would not be my most favorite thing, but this little gadget made quick work out of it --

 

It's a simple little I-cord machine, The Embellish Knit.  A tiny little 4 stitch circular knitting machine that does only one thing - I-cord - with only a couple of weights of yarn (fingering or sport, basically), but it does that one thing like a champion -- cranking out my 26" of I-cord in about 5 minutes.  In the photo you can see a wee little tail of I-cord coming out of the bottom of the machine.  Normally the weight (it's a clothespin with metal bits inside!) would be attached to the cord itself, but for photographic purposes I removed it.  Does anyone need such a Johnny One Note gadget?  Nope, not at all -- but I sure am glad I had it!

 

I've started Spring sewing too, but that's a story for another day...