B is for Basics

Lots of sewing -- lots of pics.

The weather finally turned cool for a short moment (warm and humid today though, ugh!) and I finally got the urge to sew up a few things for autumn. Nothing fancy, nothing to 'ooh and ahh' over -- just down to earth basics that will see a lot of wear. And the best thing? All from patterns that have been sewn before, so just straight, fast sewing with not a care in the world about fit. 

 I've been a big fan of Style Arc patterns for years now, and I reached way back in the pattern drawer for their Cosy Cardi. It's a streamlined cardigan -- no frills, drapes or fussy bits -- but it's one I reach for time and again. I was using a knit with very little stretch, so this one got graded up in circumference with the length remaining the same. 

It will be worn open, so no buttons or snaps -- the thick knit doesn't lend itself to either. In the photo it's pinned together at the neck so as not to expose the model. Yes, it's just a bit of plastic, but I'm not about to risk running afoul of internet standards.

Next another Style Arc pattern -- Brooklyn. This is sewn in a double sided knit, black with white spots on one side, black and white stripes on the other. It's a loose boxy top and will work well in cooler weather with an under layer.

A twinset (of sorts):  The cardigan is McCall 6844 and the pullover is a mash up of Pamela's Patterns Perfect Tee and the cowl from Sewaholic Patterns Renfrew Top (links in next garment). Fabric is a grey rayon/poly rib knit from Fabric Mart.

I've combined two patterns in the next make -- Pamela's Patterns Perfect Tee for the body, and Sewaholic Patterns Renfrew Top for the cowl neck.

Anyone noticing a neckline trend? Yes, I do love a cowl neck. Fabric is a bamboo jersey from Emma One Sock.

It can't be All Cowls All the Time though -- the next one is Kwik Sew 3658. I love the bamboo jersey knit from Emma One Sock and hope it holds up in the laundry, but I'm a bit nervous that the white markings may crack with repeated washing. Although it is a vee neck, it comes up in the back to keep my neck nice and cozy. 

And lastly, a garment from last season that I don't think ever was featured. I know it was made too late to be worn in the autumn and it really isn't a style for really cold weather. It's a coat/cardigan combo (coatigan?) and is McCall 7476.

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Again, it's pinned at the neckline to preserve plastic modesty, but will be worn open, or with a beaded silver/grey kilt type pin that I have.

The fabric is a dark grey boiled wool/rayon blend and the trim is a knit which I think is a wool or wool blend popcorn textured fabric. Both were from Fabric Mart, but I'm sure they are long since sold out.

And a closer look at the trim fabric:

Still no slacks, but I finally got the Connie Crawford slacks/pants sloper, so I hope to start on that soon. 

The Best Laid Plans...

 ...or, what didn't make the cut.

Normally before sewing starts for a new season I lay out the fabric I want to use, and then search through the pattern stash for what I want to make it into. I leave the fabric out on the counter in the sewing room as a reminder.  But this season life got abnormal. So here are the fabrics that didn't make their debut this season.

I had great hopes for refining the fit on a pair of woven slacks. I was bound and determined to make the Gobi  culottes -- neither happened. In fact, no slacks, culottes or shorts happened. Sigh.

  I am thinking of working with the Connie Crawford pants block from Islander Sewing. I've had very good results with the two bodice blocks of hers that I have recently fitted, so hopes are high that the pants sloper might work out too. I feel good about the fit I get from the Style Arc knit pants draft, but a nicely fitted woven slack eludes me.  The grey twill may still be in play if that happens.

This was the season I was going to make a couple of loose, flowy, silk tops. Nope.

The Liberty silk (background) has been featured before, the red silk from Fabric Mart hasn't  -- these still have a (small) chance to be sewn up soon, but the problem is -- where will I wear them?  Silk is definitely not my go to fabric for everyday/around the house wear.    

Then there were two pieces of woven cotton -- the grey gingham check was slated to be a tunic length shirt, the overdyed seersucker almost made it into a Style Arc top. I'm sad about the grey gingham -- that is a seriously nice piece of cotton shirting. Sold by Fabric Mart as a Thomas Mason shirting, it would make a great man's shirt too, if one were so inclined (I am not.)

And lastly, a border print rayon challis. Sorry rayon challis -- you did not get made into a short-sleeved summer top. Better luck next season!

So, into the stash closet for these fabrics. What will take their place on the counter for autumn sewing? Stay tuned.

World's Simplest Hat Pattern?

 Maybe! 

 It's The Egg Hat by Center For Pattern Design and is described:

"The bias-cut Egg Hat is inspired by Madeleine Vionnet's approach to pattern design. It is a simple, clean design which is easy to assemble and yet delivers a timeless elegance typical of her manner."

At the moment, the website seems to be undergoing some restructuring and not all patterns are shown, so here's a peek:

I had a large scrap of navy felted wool so I thought I'd (finally) give it a try -- the pattern has been living in the pattern stash for several years. As it happens, that was not a great choice in fabric for two reasons.  One, the felted wool, even cut on the bias, had zero stretch. (Duh!) But more importantly, it also rubbed off navy dye all over my hands when working with it.  Nope -- I may be a granny, but I can do without blue hair, thank you very much! It's funny, I never noticed that problem when cutting a vest out of the rest of the fabric, but I suspect there was a lot more handling of the fabric with the hat.  At any rate, there's a cut out vest I won't be finishing.

There is only one pattern piece -- an ellipse -- that is cut out twice.  Looks like this:

Sewn right sides together, then turned and folded in on itself, like so:

Scootch up one side into soft pleats and either secure the pleats with stitches, or as I did -- with a pin.  Done!

And a side view:  

While this one will end up as a test model, I do intend to make up another one -- next time in something that will have a bit of stretch, as this one was just too tight for comfort.