A little tabbed scarf

Lots of talk lately on an on-line knitting list about the scarf on this site. Mostly due to the price they're asking for a simple rectangle/two button/knit on a frame (although it is bulky cashmere!) scarf. It got me to thinking about short little scarves -- sometimes you want a luxurious length to wrap around and around, and sometimes -- not so much. I'm thinking maybe you're running to catch the Metro or the T and don't want to be tripped up or get caught in an automatic door by your scarf, but you still want a little something to keep out the chill. So, I decided to try making a crochet version of a knitting pattern for a short, tabbed scarf.

I have an old (1968) Fleisher/Bear Brand/Botany booklet with an angora knit version of the scarf, but the design is a vintage classic, and probably pops up in many places in different variations.

So, here's mine:

SHORT, TABBED SCARF

• Materials: 2 balls Valley Yarns Amherst, 100% merino yarn, 109 yards per 50 gr. Ball
• Hook: size 4.5 mm (G) or size to achieve gauge
• Gauge: 4 stitches per inch, 3 rows per inch
• Stitches used: (American terminology) hdc - half double crochet, crab stitch (also known as reverse sc) - single crochet, but worked in the reverse direction, from left to right
• Increase (Inc.) by working two stitches in the first and last hdc of an increase row.
• Decrease (Dec.) by working two stitches into one. Example: yo, insert hook in first stitch and draw up one loop (there are now 3 loops on hook). Yo again and insert hook into second stitch and draw up another loop - there are now 5 loops on the hook. Yo and draw yarn through all 5 loops.
• Additional abbreviation: f & l - first and last stitch
• Every row ends with a chain 2 for a turning chain.

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• Chain 4, hdc in second chain from hook and each remaining chain. 3 stitches
• Row 2: Increase in first and last stitch of row - 5 stitches
• Row 3: Increase in first and last stitch of row - 7 stitches
• Row 4: Inc. in f & l, - 9 stitches Work next row even over 9 stitches.
• Row 6: Inc. in f & l - 11 sts
• Row 7: Inc. in f & l - 13 sts Work one row even
• Row 9: Inc. in f & l - 15 sts Work one row even
• Row 11: Inc. in f & l - 17 sts Work 5 additional rows even.
• Row 17: Decrease (see above technique) at beginning and end of row - 15 stitches Work 2 additional rows of 15 sts.
• Row 20: Decrease at beginning and end of row - 13 sts Work 3 additional rows even.
• Row 24: Dec. row - 11 sts Work 1 row even.
• Row 26: Dec. row - 9 sts Work 7 rows even.
• Row 33: Increase row - work 2 stitches in first and last stitch of the row - 11 sts Work 3 rows even.
• Row 37: Inc. in f & l - 13 sts Work 3 rows even
• Row 41: Inc. in f & l - 15 sts Work 3 rows even.
• Row 45: Inc. in f & l - 17 sts Work even on these 17 sts for 8 1/2“, then begin shaping for opposite scarf tail.

• Next row: Dec. to 15 sts. Work 3 additional rows of 15 sts.
• Next: Dec. to 13 sts. Work 3 additional rows of 13 sts.
• Next: Dec. to 11 sts. Work 3 rows even.
• Next: Dec. to 9 sts. Work 7 rows even.
• Next: Increase in first and last stitch of the row - 11 sts. Work 1 row even.
• Next: Inc. in f & l - 13 sts Work 3 more rows even.
• Next: Inc. in f & l - 15 sts Work 2 more rows even.
• Next: Inc. in f & l - 17 sts Work 5 rows even.
• Next: Decrease at both ends of the row - 15 sts Work 1 additional 15 st row.
• Next: Dec. to 13 sts Work 1 additional row.
• Next: Dec. to 11 sts.
• Next: Dec. to 9 sts. Work 1 more row of 9 sts.
• Next: Dec. to 7 sts
• Next: Dec. to 5 sts
• Next: Dec. to 3 stitches -- end off, and work crab stitch (reverse sc) around outside edge of scarf. End off, and work in ends.

Tab: make 1. Chain 6, leaving a tail of about 10” (for sewing tab to scarf). Hdc in second chain from hook and in each chain across - 5 st. Remembering to chain 2 at end of each row for turning chain, work these 5 sts for 7 rows. End off, leaving another long tail.

Sew each end of the tab to the narrowest (9 st) section of one end of the scarf; centering it evenly between the stitches. I used a backstitch, and went over each end twice. Fasten off on wrong side and run in excess ends.

Notes: the original vintage knit scarf used angora yarn -- not sure I would want tickle-y, fly-away fibers so close to mouth/nose, so I went with merino (plus, I had it on hand). The key to yarn substitution is soft and cozy. Certainly other weights of yarn could be used for this simple shape, but you will need to re-figure the proportions, i.e. stitch and row count. Finishing with a picot edging instead of reverse sc would be nice too, I think. And for lace fans, what if one end was worked in a pineapple shape instead of plain? Food for thought.

To adjust the total length -- work less rows in the 17 stitch center back section. Scarf is pictured worn somewhat loosely on an average size neck.

Directions are as accurate and clear as I could manage. Please let me know if you try it -- I always like feedback, both pro and con. And, even though this simple scarf has existed in shape and concept for quite a while -- these particular words and photos are mine. Please respect the effort, and ask before using them in any way other than making a scarf for personal use.