Blocking It Out

 I rarely make resolutions in the new year, but this year I decided it was time to get serious about learning how to adapt my basic patterns (also known as “blocks”) into garments I’d like to have in my closet. Specifically I’d like to concentrate on tops, as I seem to have a fairly good selection of slacks already. As always, I like to start with a simple garment to maximize my chances of success.

It’s still winter weather here, but thoughts turn to Spring. My first attempt is a top seen while browsing the British retailer Nobody’s Child. Not particularly Spring like in fabrication (neither in the modeled garment nor my rendition), but it appealed as a loose, somewhat billowy shape for those mild first days of the season. 

I started the project with my basic blouse block from Fashion Patterns by Coni. 

I had to make several changes to the pattern to get close to the styling of the top, but I felt they were simple enough that I could do it.  I’ll just mention the steps I took to alter the block, as I don’t feel competent enough to give pattern alteration lessons, but I often use “Make Your Own Dress Patterns” by Adele Margolis and “Patternmaking Made Easy” by Connie Almaden-Crawford (yes, the same Coni as above) when I need guidance for simple changes and drafting.

First, the back - separate the back into a back yoke and lower back. Add seam allowances where separated. Rotate shoulder dart to armscye then add amount to shoulder seam to create wrap to the front. Add a few inches to width of lower back to allow gentle gathers when attaching to back yoke. Create back neck facing by tracing back neckline and adding width (I used 2 inches as my facing width).

Front - remove the same amount to front shoulder seam as I added to back. Add fullness for gathering to front ‘shoulder’ seam by rotating fullness from the bust dart. I have a ‘generous’ bust dart & was hesitant to rotate the full dart take-up to the shoulder in case it would appear too full in a smaller space. Add seam allowance to center front and redraw neckline to a slightly curved vee - I did not free hand this, but traced what I wanted from a different pattern - no need to re-invent the wheel! Create front facing by tracing new center front and adding width. Draft a tie strip and a ‘modesty’ underlay for the front opening - both simple rectangles, but requiring math to determine dimensions.

Sleeves - I traced the sleeve cap from the block, but frankenpatterned the lower arm fullness and length from another pattern in my stash. I was very fortunate that both patterns had very similar sleeve caps - I basically just had a small discrepancy at the underarm to fuss with. Created a narrow sleeve cuff - again, just another rectangle.

And here’s what I ended up with - 

I’m sure it’s not an exact copy, but I think it comes fairly close. Fabric is from LAFinch - Two Tone Chambray.

Notable differences - shorter ties for closures. Narrow band for sleeve - I ‘think’ the original may have an elastic casing? And mine has a bust dart in addition to shoulder gathers. 

I’m happy with how it turned out and look forward to warmer days to wear it! 

What Took So Long?

 Back in November I was looking forward to sewing with an organic cotton fleece fabric that I had ordered from Stylemaker Fabrics, so this simple top has been looooong in the making.

I decided to go with Sew House Seven Toaster sweater pattern. I’ve made it before and enjoy wearing my previous makes, plus it seemed well suited to this thick cotton fleece. 

So, what took me so long? There were (still are) a lot of strong feelings after the disappointing election we went through here in the US, which probably contributed to sewing inertia. Then again, maybe I’ve just come around to the idea that I have enough clothes for the life I lead. Who knows? I really do need to think more about needs vs. wants especially in matters of wardrobe — closet space is not infinite.

In any event, embarrassing as it is to have taken so long to complete this top, it has proven to be a soft, warm, comforting piece of clothing. I do wonder if it will hold up well, or start pilling — only time will tell. 

Unplanned Sweater

 

Unplanned, because although I wanted to knit a sweater I had something else in mind. Just one small problem — I ordered yarn at the wrong weight for the pattern I wanted to use — argh!

No worries though. We are fortunate to have so many pattern choices these days, so an alternate was quickly chosen.

The yarn is Berroco Ultra Alpaca Chunky (yep, chunky is the word my eyes skipped over when ordering) a 50% alpaca/50% wool blend that comes in 100g, 120m skeins. Using 5.5mm (US 9) needles it was a quick knit, even for a slow poke like me. The pattern is Banner, by Ellen Mason.

I made a few minor changes — most notably sleeve length. I’m not sure why anyone would want a heavy winter sweater with 3/4 length sleeves, but I certainly didn’t.

If I were to make a sweater from this weight yarn again, I would skip the stockinette beginning to the ribbing — it isn’t enough to give a nice roll, it just makes it look a bit ruffled. 

This wasn’t what I had planned, but it’s a warm and cozy sweater that will work well with almost everything else I’m wearing this season so — I’m calling it a win.