World's Simplest Hat Pattern?

 Maybe! 

 It's The Egg Hat by Center For Pattern Design and is described:

"The bias-cut Egg Hat is inspired by Madeleine Vionnet's approach to pattern design. It is a simple, clean design which is easy to assemble and yet delivers a timeless elegance typical of her manner."

At the moment, the website seems to be undergoing some restructuring and not all patterns are shown, so here's a peek:

I had a large scrap of navy felted wool so I thought I'd (finally) give it a try -- the pattern has been living in the pattern stash for several years. As it happens, that was not a great choice in fabric for two reasons.  One, the felted wool, even cut on the bias, had zero stretch. (Duh!) But more importantly, it also rubbed off navy dye all over my hands when working with it.  Nope -- I may be a granny, but I can do without blue hair, thank you very much! It's funny, I never noticed that problem when cutting a vest out of the rest of the fabric, but I suspect there was a lot more handling of the fabric with the hat.  At any rate, there's a cut out vest I won't be finishing.

There is only one pattern piece -- an ellipse -- that is cut out twice.  Looks like this:

Sewn right sides together, then turned and folded in on itself, like so:

Scootch up one side into soft pleats and either secure the pleats with stitches, or as I did -- with a pin.  Done!

And a side view:  

While this one will end up as a test model, I do intend to make up another one -- next time in something that will have a bit of stretch, as this one was just too tight for comfort.

Playing with blocks

 I think I need to forget about doing a coordinated wardrobe module and just call this what it is -- "the summer of tops". That has been the bulk of what I've sewn since March, and it continues. Perhaps autumn can be the "the season of slacks" and I can back into a planned wardrobe.

At any rate, I have put some planning into the next two tops. I am a big fan of a shoulder princess seamed top pattern. It suits my build, and is (fairly) easy to tweak the fit for narrow shoulders, large bust, thickening waist, etc., etc. My original go to pattern for this top of shirt had been Simplicity 8053 (now discontinued). It had a sleeveless view, collarless vee neck, regular shirt collar, 3/4 length hemmed sleeve, cuffed long sleeve and tunic length and regular shirt length. It served me well, but after numerous hacks, changing sizes and changing lengths -- plus fit adjustments -- it was pretty much a mass of tan tissue and Scotch tape. It was time for something new.

So, when I saw this I thought it was worth a try. It's a sloper or block (and I have no idea what the difference is) for the very style I needed. Basically, it's a fitting pattern -- you are meant to use it as a guide once you have it fit -- either to add your own customization (collars, sleeve style, etc.) or to check the fit of a commercial pattern of the same style.  Since shoulder princess shirts are fairly scarce in the pattern books, I intend to use the basic sloper and add my own details.  Most likely I will take details from already drafted patterns and add them to the bodice. I have drafted a few simple pattern details from scratch, but my skills are very basic and I see no reason to 'reinvent the wheel' if the details I want can be found in other patterns. Like most who have been sewing for a while I have an extensive library of patterns. 

I made up my test sloper with minimal changes. I shortened the armhole length (and the corresponding sleeve cap height) which is something I need to do for many commercial patterns. I sized the test garment by full bust measurement (as directed in the instructions) but graded out to a larger size in the hip. This change ended up being unnecessary. Although I normally need to narrow the shoulder, I left it as drafted. All the pattern pieces were nicely drafted and went together very smoothly. Results? A pretty good fit right off the bat -- with a few tweaks needed. The shoulders were amazingly close to what I need, although a small amount can be shaved off for a closer fit. The bust fullness needed to be lower -- no surprise there -- gravity is not a friend to the well endowed. As mentioned, the extra width in the hip was not needed, although for my first trial garment I left it in since I was going for a flowing summer top.

For this I scooped the front neckline and seamed the front up the center. The short sleeves came with the pattern. The top of the center seam is simple turned back and stitched down and closes with a thread loop and button. The back neckline was lowered a bit also.

For my second make, I went for a shirt styling. I wanted something that would be good in the heat (which will remain for quite a while) but also have a bit of autumn vibe. I ended up with this:

The neckline is raised back to a regular shirt/collar height -- only the stand was sewn to keep to a summer look. The sleeves (and armhole) were taken from a Vogue pattern, but faced with a contrasting fabric instead of hemming. One sleeve in the photo has been folded back to show that. Some hip width was removed, but more will be needed for a streamlined look. Although a small amount was taken from the shoulder width, a bit more could be removed -- perhaps due to a different fabric? Or, more likely, I wasn't as careful as I could have been in transferring the different armhole shaping to the block. I ended up using natural shell buttons from Wawak as I didn't have enough of the black ball buttons I wanted to use. Although not perfect (as absolutely none of my makes are) I am well pleased with this and will make this my basic sloper for a shoulder princess seamed shirt.  In fact, I decided to go ahead a get the block/sloper for a regular darted shirt. I do love my princess seams, but sometimes a darted shirt works better for stripes, plaids and the like. 

And here's a closer look at the shirt fabric : 

The main fabric is an Italian cotton shirting from Emma Onesock -- lovely stuff, as are most of Linda's selections. The contrast fabric is Liberty Tana lawn from The Fabric Store, a New Zealand company that has a fabulous selection of merino knits, plus lovely linen and some nice Liberty fabrics. 

Topping Up

 It's been a crazy few days -- which makes it a random Saturday in 2020. Ventured out the other day for the first time since March to a public space (other than neighborhood walks) and it felt quite strange. Precautions were taken, but there was still a level of discomfort. It certainly made me appreciate even more all the essential workers who are out there everyday to keep us safe and keep things going. On to some sewing...

All my plans for a (somewhat) coordinated summer wardrobe have flown out the window. Loss of 'sewjo', lethargy and not having much need for anything new being the main culprits.  I have made a few simple things from my tried & true (i.e. already fitted) patterns and for some reason they all seem to be tops. They also mostly seem to be navy blue or black, so my not so good phone pics will be even harder to see -- so be it.

The recently shared lemon print got made up into a Style Arc Anita peasant style top.  I even managed two tiny tassels that look pretty good and have held up through a wash.

This was a rayon challis from Telio, purchased at fabric.com.  I love the print, but the fabric itself just doesn't have the same body as the rayon challis from Cotton + Steel. Still, it's a fun, breezy summer top and will get some wear.

I was disappointed with the top I did make from some Cotton + Steel rayon challis, also recently shared.  This disappointment is entirely on me.  I really wanted to have some flowing 3/4 length sleeves and in a major idiot move didn't purchase enough fabric to do that. Arghhh! Why is it so hard to remember that it's a narrower width fabric and I need more yardage? At any rate -- a simple short sleeved loose top based on the Loes Hinse pattern 'Rochelle'.

(apologies -- since the Blogger change I haven't a clue how to position the pics in anything but the center of the page -- eventually I hope to master this)

Also, a couple of tees -- these are made from Pamela's Perfect Tee pattern. 

The navy/white stripe is a 100% cotton jersey from Organic Cotton Plus -- very nice stuff, as is pretty much everything from there.  The black tee is a mix of cotton/hemp from fabric.com.

And finally, a tank top -- this is also a Pamela's Pattern, and is a Telio bamboo jersey. Hardly visible, but the trim is simply the reverse side of the black pin dot fabric. Because it's a jersey, the reverse side is purl stitch, but it matters not to me. 

There was one new pattern made, from Love Notions, a pair of Namaste pj's. Those are currently being worn, so no pics -- you're welcome.

Full On Norma Desmond

Well, it was bound to happen. After making (and wearing) wide, turban-style headbands it was only a matter of time until I tried the full turban.

Thinking it would be too artsy or costume-y looking made me pause, but at the end of the day I decided I just didn't care. My hair, my hair cover up. Anyway, who was going to see it and roll their eyes -- my family? Ha! Bring it people -- moms have their own deep wells of embarrassing childhood moments which could be easily retrieved to counter any snarks or snickers. If one were so inclined, of course.

At any rate, the pattern is Surimani by Opian available on Etsy or The Foldline and is listed as suitable for stretch or woven fabric. Two sizes available, with instructions in French and English. I used a large scrap of Art Gallery cotton/Lycra jersey to make my toile and made it up in the smaller size, figuring the fabric would stretch if needed. If memory serves (and it often doesn't) the finished sizes were 56 and 60cm -- translated to American -- about 22.04" and 23.6".

And the result? Not bad at all, in fact, kind of fun. It's comfortable to wear in a cotton jersey -- not too heavy or constricting -- not much more "head feel" than a wide headband. Added warmth might be a factor for some -- temperatures here are currently running in the high 80's, low 90's with heavy humidity (31+C to 32+C to the rest of the world), but I don't plan on being out in that anyway.  I like it worn back a bit on the head and with some hair showing around the face, but with the back hair tucked away.

The pattern itself is 6 pages in PDF format, but only 4 pages need to be taped together. Instructions are brief, but this is a fairly simple design so that shouldn't be an issue. It was a little unclear to me exactly where the back pleats should be started up from the band, but checking  a back view photo (on Etsy) gave me a good idea. I'm not sure how critical that is anyway. My only deviation from the instructions was to fused down the serged edges of the front opening to the inside of the turban so they wouldn't peek out when worn. I also tacked the small band (part C, called a "bow") to the seam allowance of the band so the seam of the "bow" wouldn't migrate out to the public side. 

Battling lassitude

Lassitude: a state of physical or mental weariness, lack of energy, lethargy.

It’s been a stressful few months for most of us, and creativity (for me) has dropped. Ironic, yes?  Time enough to make, and no real desire to do so. But lassitude feeds on itself and grows stronger with inaction, so, what to do? Here’s what I’ve tried to bring back some joy in the sewing room.

Just begin. A variant on the “Just Do It” ad I suppose, but without the pressure of a completed project. Just make a start — no deadline. One small step. I just finished a simple tee — it took me 4 days for something that would normally be a morning’s work. No matter, it got done.

Think small. Maybe now is not the time (for me) to embark on that tiny needles, thin yarn sweater. For some it might bring on a comforting, soothing meditative state, but for me it’s just another endless task. A lacy cowl, a cabled hat though — small, still interesting, do-able.

Rely on your “Tried & True”. Take comfort in the patterns you know work well for you. Give yourself every chance for a successful outcome. It may be “just a tee shirt”, but how much more satisfying than yet another “wadder”.

But don’t avoid the new if you can set aside that need for perfection. Just sample different stitches or techniques — play. Some things work, some things don’t. If they don’t please you not much is lost. If they do — a small creative spark!

These are things that have helped me fight against the hopelessness of “Why bother making?” A small thing in the larger picture of life in 2020, but I’ll take hope where I can find it.

Hair in the Time of Social Distancing

In the greater scheme of things the state of one's hair is extremely far down the list of current worries. Still, it's another small thing that adds to the malaise of 2020, so here's how I've been coping with that -- headbands.

I was last in a hair salon a few days before lockdown and closings.  I decided to get a new style -- a not quite pixie, but very short cut.  Good planning? Well, no. This was the sort of style that looks good when it's well maintained and trimmed frequently. The sort of style that often grows out -- oddly. 

No sense crying over something that temporarily can't be fixed, so let's go to a backup plan -- cover that mess! I considered a full-on turban, but then decided to ease into the style with a turban-like headband.  You can, of course, purchase a million different kinds online, but makers gotta make.

I have quite a lot of knit scraps that I fully intend to turn into - something? - in the future, so here was a good chance to get rid of a few. I looked at several tutorials, and ended up using the one from Dina's Daughter.  That link will take you to a measurement chart, and a further link to her YouTube tutorial. I used some leftover Art Gallery jersey and ended up with this:

Very comfortable to wear, and that particular fabric has plenty of "snap back".  Luckily it's also my favorite fabric for cotton tees, so plenty of scraps to choose from.

















Recently however I ran across a pattern for a woven fabric headband and decided to give it a try.  The tutorial is from Sew DIY - sorry, no direct link as Blogger takes me to the home page instead of to the tutorial despite typing the loooong address of the tutorial - which is sewdiy.com/blog/ulalouise.com/2013/07/diy-tutorial-turban-headband - but if all else fails - Google? It is apparently a knock off of an Anthropologie headband - the tutorial is from 2013, but the headbands are still being sold (if that matters to anyone). I can't say the tutorial is very clearly written, but it suffices - and my version looks like this:

Hmmm, I seem to like navy/white stripes, don't I?

Overall, I much prefer the knit version.  Because a headband needs to stretch, and woven fabric doesn't (much) any woven band will need to have elastic added to provide the stretch - and elastic will need to be covered by slightly gathered fabric. This adds an extra 'lump' to the back of your head, especially if your hair, like mine, is not luxuriously long - even if your fabric is quite thin.  So, while I love the fabric, and it looks good from the front - I can really live without that extra head lump! 

So, for now, my growing out hair will continue to be 'styled' with bands. Although in our locale the salons are re-opened, I won't be rushing off until things are more settled. Given the Metro area prices we pay I'd really like to not have my stylist working around required face masks when she's doing her precision cutting. Just me -- your mileage may vary.

Some fabric therapy...

...and a fabric disappointment.

It seems foolish to order fabric when you aren't sewing all that much, but hopefully that will change and nothing lifts the spirits like some fresh, pretty yardage.

First up -- some Telio Viscose Challis -- and how cheerful are lemons on a striped background?

I haven't used this particular challis before, and although it seems a bit thinner than my usual "go to" I think it will work quite well for a breezy peasant top. I'm thinking of Style Arc Anita and I'm hoping to find (or make?) some yellow tassels for the neck ties.















Because it is so lovely to work with, I indulged in some more of my favorite rayon challis --Cotton + Steel Rifle Paper Co. -- this particular pattern is "Wonderland".

It could be considered a bit whimsical -- with the Alice in Wonderland patterns -- but I don't think it jumps out at you.  Besides, what's wrong with a little whimsy these days?

Right now I'm planning to make a Loes Hinse Rochelle
but switching out the sleeve for a 3/4 length bishop sleeve.

This is a simple, classic pattern, but I like its floaty fit in a drapy rayon.








And lastly, a bit of a splurge --  Liberty Fabrics silk crepe "Marbelle Hall".

This was on clearance at Fabric.com for (not quite) 50% off, so why not? It is an absolutely lovely piece of silk and the pattern is not quite as twee as Liberty's ditsy flowers. Still pondering on the best pattern to use for this piece.

And now for disappointment:  I purchased some embroidered chambray to make a light summer dress -- Style Arc Lacey 

Doesn't look too bad from a distance, right?  The pattern itself is a good one for the type of everyday summer dress I was looking for. I lengthened the bodice by a bit (it's still above natural waist as the designer intended), and shortened the sleeves by an inch. I also used self-made bias binding on the neck instead of facings for no other reason than that's what I prefer.  So, no problems at all with the pattern.

The problem occurred when I took a close look at the embroidery.  What I had seen and assumed were French knots were in fact loose stitches. The embroidery is done entirely in chain stitches.  Chain stitching itself is not the issue, but the haphazard way it was fastened off is.  If you've ever unzipped a pet food bag you know that once you've pulled on the right end the stitching flies off.  

The yellow loops at the far left are loose stitches.  I've tried to fix the worst of them (and there are many motifs with this issue), but there's only so much you can do. So, I'm not really sure how long this will hold up -- there's no way a summer cotton isn't going to need to be laundered at some point. Sigh.  It even got a compliment from Mr. Mingling Yarn when I first modeled it.  Double sigh.